What actually happens between the switch and the light
A Voswitch system is two parts: the panel you press and the module that carries the current. Understanding the split is what stops people ordering the wrong thing.
The panel carries almost no current
The switches on the dash do not feed your light bar. They send a low-current signal to the power module, which does the actual switching. That is why the panel can be thin, sealed and mounted on a grab handle without a bundle of heavy cable behind it.
It also means a failed switch is a cheap part rather than a burnt harness. Voswitch sells the panel and the mother board separately for exactly this reason.
The module switches with transistors, not relays
Inside the module the load is switched by MOSFETs. Compared with mechanical relays this runs cooler, has no contacts to pit or weld, and does not have a finite click count.
The practical consequence is heat. A relay box under the bonnet gets hot because every contact has resistance; a solid-state module of the same rating stays noticeably cooler, which matters when it is bolted somewhere with no airflow.
Protection that resets itself
A short circuit trips the affected channel, and once the fault is cleared the channel comes back on its own. No blade fuse to find, no fuse puller, no spares kit.
This is the feature people appreciate a year later rather than on the day they buy. A chafed wire on a trail used to end the day; here it interrupts one circuit and the rest of the vehicle carries on.
Matching the load to the channel
Channels are not all equal. On the PRO6 truck module the six circuits are rated 20, 20, 30, 30, 40 and 60 A, totalling 150 A. A vehicle-specific panel is typically 100 A total.
Work out your heaviest single load first and put it on the biggest channel. Compressors and heated seats are the usual surprises; light bars draw far less than people expect.
One thing never goes through an accessory module: winch motor current. A winch under load draws several hundred amps and gets its own cable straight from the battery, with the module switching the solenoid instead.
What installation involves
The harnesses are pre-terminated, so there is no cutting into the vehicle loom and no drilling. The module takes a feed from the battery, the panel clips into a space the vehicle already has, and the two connect with the supplied cable.
Budget an afternoon for a first installation and less than that for a second. The part that takes time is routing the cable neatly through the firewall, not the electrical work.
If you would rather not do it yourself, our workshop in Warsaw fits these, and most 4x4 workshops across Europe will manage it from the supplied instructions.
Common questions
Can I add a second panel later?
Usually yes — a second panel needs its own module unless you are within the channel count of the first. Tell us what you are planning and we will say whether one module covers it.
Does it drain the battery when parked?
The module's standby draw is negligible, but anything you leave switched on is not. If you park for weeks, the sensible habit is the same as with any accessory wiring: switch things off, and consider a battery monitor.
Is it legal in the EU?
The panel and module themselves are accessory wiring and raise no type-approval issue. What you connect to them might: auxiliary driving lights, beacons and work lights each have their own rules about when they may be used on a public road. That is about the lamp, not the switch.
Not sure which panel fits?
Send us the model, the year and what you want to run from the panel. You will get a specific answer, including a note if the part you were looking at is the wrong one.